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翠湖留下的心影

张长①

①翠湖,这个昆明市中心的公园,园内楼台亭阁,曲水回廊,树影婆裟,波光潋滟,于高楼大厦车水马龙中突现这样一个好去处,实为难得。汪曾祺先生在《翠湖心影》②中曾说:“城市有湖,这在中国,在全世界都是不多的。”【:21cnj*y.co*m】

②翠湖原名“九龙池”。据清人倪蜕《滇云历年传》载:“九泉所出,汇而成池,故名九龙池。”翠湖还有一个老名字:“菜海子”,想是当年“清回透彻,蔬圃居其半”。再早,翠湖只是昆明城外一片沼泽,出水成河,名“洗马河”。明初,沐英带兵入云南,曾在这里“种柳牧马”。1919年政府在此地修建公园,因其“十亩荷花鱼世界,半城杨柳拂楼台”的湖光山色而改名“翠湖”。

 ③翠湖一年四季都是绿的。尤以雨季。草木繁茂,翠湖的绿树几乎覆盖了全部楼台亭阁。高处望去,只是一片绿树碧水,此时,就只剩一个字——“翠”。引得汪曾祺又一次赞叹:“翠湖这名字取得真好!”汪曾祺海写道:“昆明人特意来游翠湖的也有,不多,多数人只是往这里穿过。”(汪曾祺《翠湖心影》)可以想见当时地处西郊的翠湖有多么静谧。

  ④随着城市的急剧膨胀,昆明城区较以往扩大许多,翠湖早已置身城市中心,成了一个大大的街心花园。闹市中能有这样一个好去处,自然会成为路人、游客抄近道、游览、休闲、健身的首选。我家住翠湖边,以往是好福气,现在却是好无奈。

⑤每日里尚未破晓,必有一中年壮汉在湖边仰天作狮子吼,道:“欧——吼!”此公中气十足,声音极具穿透力和感染力,闻此一声,心头一颤,整个人都要随他痛惜良久。随即,这类吼叫声层出不穷,此起彼伏,一时间翠湖中百家争鸣。    ⑥稍后歌舞健身大军正式入园。 “水月轩” 面积不足一亩,却有五六群唱歌跳舞晨练的人,他们自带音响,各踞一方。五六种风格各异的音乐轰轰然混成一片,旁人早已分不清楚,舞者却能安之若素,互不见怪,依旧踩着自己的节奏,手之舞之,足之蹈之。

⑦也有占据一个小亭子,一角小回栏,在一支笛子或一把二胡的伴奏下的独唱,哪怕声音沙哑,尖锐刺耳,歌者也自得其乐。还有郑重地穿上演出服,化了妆的大妈们,三五成群,开足音响,边跳边唱,其乐陶陶。最有气势当数彝族的左脚舞,一来便几十上百人围成个大圈子,弹着十几把月琴、三弦,一跳几个小时,中间不停不歇,通宵达旦也不成问题。

⑧临窗而望,如今的翠湖被几十层的高楼大厦团团围住,已成了一个小小的盆景,昔日那一片“柳林洗马”田园风光早已没了寻处。  

⑨“逝者如斯夫”,吾梦寐以求之。我一直试图找回汪曾祺先生笔下的“翠湖心影”。《翠湖心影》的那份静谧。一日傍晚,小雨淅沥,翠湖不再人头攒动,歌舞欢腾。我当即决定独自漫步翠湖,寻找一丝逝去的静谧。穿行于园中,听听细雨中沙沙作响的树语,看看影影绰绰的楼阁,品品这些百年前留下的风景……“细雨鱼儿出”,“ 泼喇”一声,湖里果真跃起了一条大鱼。刹那间,我仿佛回到了《翠湖心影》里,心头一阵惊喜。然而当鱼儿落入水中,湖面却荡起了五颜六色的霓虹。那种变幻使我明白:鱼,早已不是汪曾祺的那条大红鱼了,翠湖留下的只是心影罢了。

⑩明天,又将是这个小盆景歌舞喧嚣的一天。

                        (选自2015年4月10日《光明日报》,有改动)

 【注】 ①张长  白族,原名赵培中,1938年出生于澜沧江畔云龙县一个叫漕涧的白族村庄里。曾做过乡村医生。1957年开始创作,曾获全国短篇小说奖现为中国作家协会会员,中国散文学会理事,中国国学研究会研究员,云南省文史馆馆员,国家一级作家。②汪曾祺先生就读西南联大时,常常穿过翠湖去图书馆看书,留下深刻印象。多年后回忆往事,写下《翠湖心影》一文。


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    Imagine being a crew member, hundreds of years ago, sailing in southern waters. Your captain is searching for food while exploring unfamiliar waters. Your job is to watch the sea off the ship's side for ice. The wind is cold on your face. Alongside the ship, a fish darts past. Another slows to a stop and raises its head above the water to look at you. How could a fish do that?

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    Emperor penguins have nests on top of their feet. Father Emperor penguins keep the egg on top of their feet for more than two months, until the egg is ready to hatch. The mother penguin goes out for food during that time. Imagine holding an egg on your feet for two months until someone returns with food!

    Male and female penguins are both good parents. Once the chicks hatch, both parents travel long distances to find food for them in the sea. It may be days before the parents return and the chicks eat again. When they return with food, the fun really begins. Chicks chase their parents, begging for food. Penguin chicks eat huge amounts at one time.

    Eventually, the adult penguins stop feeding the chicks. This is nature's way of forcing children to grow up. When the penguin chicks are hungry enough, they find their way to the sea. Without any swimming lessons, they make their way into the icy waters and swim as only penguins do.