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神州第一味

刘英敏

    ①“夫唯不争,故天下莫能与之争。”(《老子》)此亦豆腐之谓乎?

    ②认识中国,可从豆腐找到绝佳切入口。儒释道左右中国几千年。道教是中国土生土长的宗教,豆腐最能代表中国的味道,因其多有“道味”。这,首先因豆腐的发明者是道者。中国文化史上地位很高的《淮南子》是道家的重要经典之一。淮南王刘安聚数千方士一边在炼丹中发明了豆腐,一边成就了《淮南子》。豆腐先是道者的长寿膏丹,后来传入民间。道家发明的豆腐营养中华文明两千余年,可申报世界文化遗产。刘安乃汉高祖刘邦之孙。豆腐因而有了庙堂、江湖和红尘三者的机缘。故,国人上上下下,神州东西南北,莫不深爱之。

    ③若说豆腐为道家之味,则红烧肉为法家之味,大蒜炒肉为儒家之味,苦瓜肉丁为墨家之味吧。红烧肉不能日日吃(犹如治国不能长期用法家),其它的,但食无妨。豆腐之味有容乃大,因其“几乎无味”,所以左右逢源:划线肉末,则具儒家韵味;油豆腐烧肉,别有法家风貌;白水煮豆腐,深得佛家情怀……“达则兼济天下,穷则独善其身。”一块霉豆腐可为穷人下一餐饭,一桌豆腐宴可为主人壮脸面。豆腐干豆腐丝霉豆腐臭豆腐乃至水豆腐或者豆浆……士农工商兵家戏子三教九流均可在那儿找到胃的知音,正如西方人在“啃得急”、汉堡包以及可乐中寻到胃的伴侣。据说西方人也开始兴做豆腐,不一味地“啃得急”了——心放慢而食热豆腐也,以至于英文多了个新词“TOFU”(豆腐)。我想,这不仅仅因豆腐有高蛋白、低脂肪、低胆固醇和低热量之实用大优点,更因“豆腐得味,远胜燕窝”的至味和内中所藏的东方生活趣味与哲理吧。

    ④豆腐的温柔朴善,源自她的“娘”——黄豆的良善仁厚。黄土地,黄豆子。五谷之一的“菽”(大豆),中国是最早的栽培者。《诗经·小雅·小宛》云:“中原有菽。”读之,思古之幽,五内俱热。豆子、豆腐为国粹。玉米、红薯等许多粮食作物传自外邦。菽,总让我们亲切。“煮豆燃豆萁”的心酸,“种豆南山下”的向往,“菽水承欢”的亲情,“喜看稻菽千重浪”的农家乐……这些,很中国。菽,实在有中国人的朴茂含蓄,予多取少,没有麦之芒,不像高粱那样张扬……它营养丰富,以至于军粮(含军马饲料)也少不了它。但它却不需多少肥料,因为自备了根瘤菌,可固定大气中的游离氮素而自产肥料并改良土壤。许多粮食用来做酒,大豆却“不参加这类派对”,甘心平凡,大智若愚。如此良善之“娘”,其“后代”能不好吗?豆腐“之前”的水豆腐,似黛玉,芳心如水才思荡漾。水豆腐“之前”的豆浆,外活泼内仁和,如史湘云。豆浆配油条,乃乾与坤、阴与阳、水与火、刚与柔……之配,因其含如许高度之哲理,方成就“油条加豆浆”之美味。豆浆和牛奶,国人宜豆浆。牛奶有游牧文明的冲动野力;豆浆具农耕文明的隐忍良善。豆腐呢,好比宝钗,入得厨房,上得厅堂。豆干像晴雯,性韧味厚。油豆腐,可比附一下王熙凤。霉豆腐像刘姥姥……

    ⑤“旋乾磨上流琼液,煮月档中滚雪花。”——唐诗的如此意境当永随国人。“才闻香气已先贪,白褚油封由小餐。滑似油膏挑不起,可怜风味似淮南。”(清·李调元《豆腐乳》),如此滋味当长存人间。“信知磨砺出精神,宵旰勤劳泄我真。最是清廉方正客,一生知己属贫人。”(清·胡济苍《豆腐》),如此精神美味应永存天地间!

    ⑥啊,豆腐,识君之味,百味可解!

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Many musicians meet and form(组成)a band because they like to write and play their own music. They may start as a group of high school students and practice their music in someone's house. Sometimes they may play to passers—by in the street or subway so that they can get some money for themselves or pay for their instruments (乐器).

    However, there was one band that started in a different way. It was called the Monkees and was formed in 1965. It began as a TV show. The TV show had planned to find four rock musicians who could act as well as sing. But they could only find one who was good enough. They had to use actors for the other three members of the band.

    Since some of these actors could not sing well enough,they had to ask for help from other musicians. So at first,the band just pretended (假装)to sing. Anyway,their performances were excellent and they got lots of fans. Each week on TV,the Monkees would pretended to play and sing songs written by other musicians. After a year or so,they became more serious about their work. They started to play and sing their own songs like a real band. Then they produced(制作)their own records and started touring and playing their own music. In the USA they became even more influential and popular than the Beatles and sold even more records.

    However, the band broke up around 1970,but happily they reunited(重聚)in the 1980s. They produced a new record in 1996 to celebrate their time as a band. It was very successful. Today the Monkees are still making music for their millions of fans.